Food and drink on La Palma

Men and women everywhere could learn something from it: wrinkled, with no thought of a facelift, yet still irresistible. We are talking about the papa arrugada. This small potato covered in a fine salt crust neatly sums up La Palma cuisine: unpretentious, rooted in the land and full of flavour.

La Palma cuisine grew out of the island landscape and history. Canarian, Spanish, Portuguese and Latin American influences meet bananas, almonds, goat milk, fish, wine, sea salt and locally grown vegetables. Many recipes remain simple, and that is precisely where much of their character lies.

From the cooking pot, grill and Atlantic

Pucheros and potajes combine potatoes, chickpeas, pumpkin, cabbage, beans or chayote, with chicken, pork, beef, rabbit or kid added according to each household recipe. Sopa de picadillo, wheat stew and chickpea broth also belong to the traditional island repertoire.

Pork, rabbit, kid and goat meat in sauce appear on grills and in casseroles. The Atlantic supplies parrotfish, alfonsiño, mackerel and tuna, among many other fish. Arepas recall the close relationship with Venezuela. Papas and mojo are rarely far away.

Gofio: food with a history

Gofio is flour made from grain that is roasted and then ground. It was already eaten by the indigenous Canary Islanders and remained an essential staple for centuries. Since 2014, Gofio Canario has been registered as a Protected Geographical Indication of the European Union.

Today it is stirred into milk, used to thicken broth or kneaded into a firm mixture. It coats chicharrones, gives body to escaldón made with fish or meat stock, and forms part of La Palma escacho, usually combining potatoes, green mojo and goat cheese.

Bananas in the kitchen

Bananas define much of the coastal landscape and also appear in savoury recipes. Polines, a speciality associated with Tazacorte, are made from boiled green bananas, seasoned or served with an onion and tomato sauce. Fried bananas and crisp tostones also reveal the culinary influence of Cuba and Venezuela.

Queso Palmero

Authentic Queso Palmero with Protected Designation of Origin is made on the island from milk produced by the native Palmera goat, natural rennet and sea salt. It is sold fresh, matured or smoked; natural materials such as almond shells, Canary pine needles or dried cactus fibres lend the smoked cheeses their distinctive aromas.

One of the most popular ways to enjoy it is queso asado: goat cheese grilled on a hotplate and served with red or green mojo. It works as a starter, a vegetarian main course or a small meal with a glass of island wine.

Papas arrugadas and mojo

Papas arrugadas are small unpeeled potatoes boiled in heavily salted water until dry, wrinkled and covered by a delicate salt crust. They accompany fish and meat, although with a good mojo they can easily take centre stage themselves.

Red mojo draws its colour and warmth from dried peppers or local Palmeran peppers, garlic, cumin, vinegar, oil and salt. Green mojo is usually made with coriander or parsley and is especially good with fish or grilled cheese. Variations containing ground almonds are also traditional in northern La Palma.

Wines with volcanic character

The La Palma Designation of Origin has been recognised since 1994. Old vines, many growing on their own roots, occupy volcanic soils and often steep slopes. Characteristic varieties include Malvasía Aromática, Negramoll, Listán Blanco, Listán Prieto, Albillo Criollo, Sabro, Bujariego, Gual and Verdello.

Vino de Tea is a speciality of the north-west. White, rosé or red wines are stored or aged in barrels made from the resin-rich heartwood of the Canary pine, developing unmistakable aromas and flavours. They pair particularly well with robust dishes and Queso Palmero.

Aromatic Malvasía, especially as a naturally sweet wine, is one of the island gems. Malmsey wines were praised in early modern European literature; on La Palma the variety is particularly associated with Fuencaliente and Villa de Mazo.

Honey and a sweet legacy

Different honeys are produced in the island interior according to the season and flowering plants. Farmers markets offer mild and intense varieties from small apiaries, alongside almonds, fruit, cheese and other La Palma produce.

The island baking and dessert tradition recalls the era of sugar-cane cultivation. Cone-shaped rapaduras combine cane syrup, gofio, almonds, sugar, cinnamon and lemon. Almendrados, almond cheese, marquesotes, meringue-like suspiros and Carnival honey soup are among the many other handmade sweets.

Bienmesabe is made with almonds, sugar, egg yolk and spices and is often served with ice cream. Príncipe Alberto combines chocolate, sponge cake, almonds and hazelnuts. Both desserts are closely associated with the confectionery tradition of Los Llanos de Aridane and the name of Matilde Arroyo.

Buen provecho - enjoy your meal!